Wednesday, January 22, 2014

IRAN D3, 04.03.2013


Sobe v hotelu so bile nekoliko pretople,  kljub odprtim oknom. Očitno niso še preklopili na poletno hlajenje, saj je iz rež hladilne naprave pihal topli zrak. Po normalnem zajtrku smo odrinili v sveže jutro. Proti Yazd-u.  Blizu hotela se veliko gradi in sem imel možnost opazovati Iranski način. Fotografije sem žal prepozno pričel snemati in verjetno nisem ujel bistva. Pristop je zanimiv podoben tistemu v New Yorku s pričetka 20. stoletja. Najprej naredijo železno konstrukcijo, ki jo nato zapolnijo z opekami in s tenkimi betonskimi ploščami. Vse to pokrijejo kar lepe fasade. Upam, da je ta način gradnje primeren za to potresno območje in da so jim ga svetovali Japonci. Verjetno je samo cenejši.Hotel room was slightly overheated even with open windows .Obviously, they didn't switch to summer air-conditioning, because there was a warm air coming out of the air conditioner. After what could be called normal breakfast we set off in fresh early morning air toward Yazd. There was a lot of building going on around the hotel so it was possible to observe Iranian methods. I started late trying to capture my observation and I am not sure if caught the real essence. Method reminds me of New York skyscraper construction at the beginning of 20th. century. The iron (steel) construction is build first and then filled up by bricks and thin concrete plates. Everything is then covered by nice looking façade. I certainly hope that this method is adequate for earthquake region and the Japanese gave them some advice. Most probably it is just cheaper method.

Na poti proti Yazdu nasadi pistacij in puščava. Nekaj krat nas ustavi policija, da preveri če smo privezani in če so ženske primerno oblečene. Pasovi so dvotočkovni, smrtno nevarno (poškodba medenice in hrbtenice), pa še delovali niso v večini primerov. Po nekaj več kot 4 urah prispemo v Yazd. Vmes smo deležni religiozne vzgoje in nekaj zgodovinskih opomb, ki bi jih morali že prebrati v predpisani skripti. Osrednja tema je poleg Islama Zoroastirianizem. V Yazdu živi okoli 20.000 Zoroastrijancev.

On the road to Yazd there are only pistachios plantations and desert. We were stopped few times by police. They were checking seat belt use and if our ladies are dressed appropriately. Two point safety seat belts are deadly (pelvic and spine injuries) also most of the belts didn't work at all. We have arrived in Yazd after four hours drive. This exposed us to some religious education and some remarks about history, which we should apparently study from the lecture notes of our guide. Beside Islam the central topic was Zoroastrianism. There is some 20000 Zoroastrians living in Yazd.

V Yazdu se najprej odpravimo jest. Vodička nas odpelje v tradicionalno restavracijo, v nekdanjem kopališču. Po okusnem kebabu se odpravimo v muzej vode. Voda je v teh krajih izjemno pomembena. "Qanta" so kanali, ki so jih kopali pod zemljo tudi do 200 km. Voda pod zemljo v puščavi ne bo izparela. V muzeju so postopki z vodo podrobno opisani, V spominu  mi je ostala tudi nekakšna vodna ura s katero so merili količino vode, ki jo je dobilo vsako polje.

Arriving in Yazd first order of business was to find something to eat. Our lady guide had taken us to a "traditional" restaurant in what used to be bath house. After tasty kebab we are off to a water museum. The water is an important issue in this parts of the world. "Qanta" are underground channels excavated for 200 km in length. Underground water do not evaporate, even in desert. The procedures of water management are described in details. I remember a water clock which was used for portioning water for individual fields.




Potem se odpravimo do mošeje, ki ima največja minareta v Iranu. Jāmeh mošeja je zgrajena v 12. stoletju, v času dinastije Al-e Bouyeh. Mošeja je zgrajena v Azeri stilu. Vhodni portal je prekrit od vrha do tal z modro keramiko. Na vrhu se dvigujeta dva najvišja minareta v Iranu. V dnu ogromnega z arkadami obkroženega dvorišča se nahaja jugovzhodni Iwan, struktura, ki je verjetno najbolj izstopajoča značilnost Iranske Islamske arhitekture.


Next we went to see great Jāmeh mosque, with two highest minarets in Iran. Jāmeh mosque was built in 12th century during the reign of Al-e Bouyeh dinasty. It was built in Azeri style. Entrance portal is covered from top to bottom with blue ceramics. On the top two highest minarets in Iran are soaring in to the sky. At the the end of the large arcaded court yard you can see south-east Iwan, structure which is probably the most prominent characteristic of Iranian Islamic architecture.



Vmes zgubimo enega sopotnika, ki je nekako zaostal za skupino. To povzroči paniko pri vodičih, ki organizirajo pravo iskalno akcijo, s policijo vred. V vsej tej zmedi nas pomotoma namesto na naslednjo ogledno točko, pripeljejo v hotel, kjer se seveda najprej nastanimo . Hotel je del verige tradicionalnih hotelov. Hotel je predelana hiša mestnega draguljarja.  Čeprav ne zelo funkcionalno vendar pa zelo simpatično so obdržali stare načine zaklepanja z ključavnicami. Po nastanitvi  odidemo na ogled Zoroastrkega temelja, kjer hranijo večni ogenj. Tu se nam ponovno pridruži izgubljeni, ki ga reveža ošteva cela skupina. Za posladek nas odpeljejo še na bazar, kjer pa prodajajo pretežno zlato in tkanine.






In a mean time we had succeeded loosing one of our travel mates. This had caused considerable panic with our guides, who have organised a real search and rescue with police and all. In all the resulting confusion we were taken to hotel instead to our next sightseeing spot. Of course we had settled first. Hotel belongs to a traditional hotels chain. It is situated in refurbished jeweller town house. Locking the rooms with old fashioned locks was not very functional but it was cute. After settling in we are off to a Zoroastrian temple where they keep fire going for 1000 years. Here we were joined by our missing travel mate, who was given appropriate feedback, from the whole group. Poor guy. For the desert we are visiting Yazd bazaar, where they mostly trade in gold and jewellery.



Večerjamo v hotelu. Večerja v hotelih je verjetno posledica ne preveč dobre ponudbe restavracij, čeprav vodiči ponujajo nekaj imen. Tudi, če je ceneje je tokrat večerja dobra, v zanimivem okolju. Vendar predno končam to objavo, še nekaj posnetkov iz nočnega Yazda ter draguljarskega bazaarja.



We had dinner in a hotel. Hotel dinners are probably consequence of poor restaurant availability, in spite of local guides offering some names. Even if it is cheaper, the dinner is good in an interesting environment. But before closing this post some shots of night Yazd and jewellers bazaar.