Wednesday, November 14, 2012

Potepanja po Granadi / Wandering around Granada

You have probably noticed that my posts are lagging behind. Getting back in the harsh reality of everyday life doesn't help. But I do hope that my memories do not deteriorate and disperse before I get a chance to write the down.

Verjetno ste opazili, da moje objave zaostajajo. Vrnitev v kruto realnost vsakodnevnega življenja ne pomaga veliko, ravno nasprotno. Vendar upam, da moji spomini ne bodo prehitro izginili, še preden jih bom lahko zapisal.


Early morning - Plaza Bib Rambla is waking up. The name is coming from Arab Bab ar Ramia which means "wall gate" or maybe "gate at the river". The plaza used to be a sandy stretch near the river. It was used for different purposes, as a market place and also for different public events like "auto-de-fes" infamous inquisition public trails.


V zgodnjem jutru se prebuja Plaza Bib Rambla, Ime prihaja iz Arabskega Bab ar Ramia, kar pomeni "vrata v obzidju" ali "vrata na reko". Trg je včasih bil peščena obala reke. Uporabljali so ga za različne namene, predvsem za tržnice, vendar tudi za različne javne dogodke kot zloglasni "auto-de-fe" javno sojenje, ki jih je uprizarjala inkvizicija.


Around the corner we discover Alcaicería. This used to be a silk bazaar where silk was made and sold. Nowdays it is taken up by souvenir shops. Alcaicería literally means either the "house of Caesar" or "belonging to Caesar" in recognition of the fact that Emperor Justinian granted the Moors permission to sell silk. Original silk bazar burned down in 1843.


Za vogalom odkrijemo Alcaicerío. Včasih tržnica, kjer so izdelovali in prodajali svilo, danes trgovine z suvenirji. Alcaicería dobesedno pomeni "Cezarjeva hiša" ali "pripada Cezarju" v počastitev dejstva, da je bizantinski cesar Justinijan dovolil Mavrom, da so trgovali z svilo. Originalni bazar je pogorel leta 1843.




Waiting for monuments (Cathedral and Royal Chapel) to open for visitors we had wandered around taking in different glimpses of Cathedral squeezed in narrow streets. Open doors of now University building with baroque facade, let us see what is left of once great Nasrid sultan Yusuf I madrasa. The only surviving part of the school is the prayer room, which surprise you with intricate decorations, beautifully preserved.


Med tem ko sva čakala, da se Katedrala in Kraljevska kapela odpro za obiskovalce, sva se sprehajala po ozkih uličicah in se pustila presenetiti pogledom na utesnjeno Katedralo. Odprta vrata na lepi Univeritetni stavbi z baročni fasado, nama omogoči, da uzremo ostanek nekoč veličastne madrase Nasridskega sultana Yusufa I. Edini preživeli del je molilnica, ki preseneti s čudovito dekoracijo, ki je neverjetno dobro ohranjena.


Cathedral of Granada was built on the site of mosque, after Granada was reconquered from the Moors. It was begun in 1526 and finished in 1714. It took them 188 years. Enrique de Egas designed original Gothic style plans, but cathedral was later built in Renaissance style by Diego de Siloe.
Walking around the Cathedral we ended up on Calle de la Carcel at the very interesting Puerta del Perdon. It is not quite clear if forgiveness is gained by walking through this door or the justice was dispensed, considering the figures adorning this side entrance to the Cathedral.


Granadska katedrala je zgrajena na mestu mošeje, potem ko so Granado ponovno osvojili kristjani. Gradnjo so pričeli leta 1526, končali so pa 1714. Potrobovali so neverjetnih 188 let. Originalne načrte je narisal Enrique de Egas v Gotskem stilu, vendar je katedralo dokončal Diego de Siloe.
Ko hodiva okoli katedrale, v ulici Calle de la Carcel, odkrijeva zelo zanimiva Puerta del Perdon. Ob pogledu na figur, ki krasijo ta stranski vhod se lahko vprašamo ali so tisti, ki so vstopili bili deležni odpuščanja ali težke roke pravice.



Passing the market and spices and  knocking on the heavens door  we finally turned the corner and founour self in front of the cathedral. This amazing Baroque facade was designed by Alonso Cano in 1667. It was designed as a monumental Triumphal arch with coffered ceilings and three bays  moved in between pilasters. Again my fascination is with the details.

Mimo tržnice in začimb ter trkanja na nebeška vrata,  prideva  okoli vogala in se znajdeva pred glavno fasado katedrale. To je oblikoval Alonso Cano leta 1667. Zamišljena je kot slavolok z kastnimi stropiin tremi ladjami pogreznjenimi med pilastre. Kot vedno fascinirajo detalji.





Royal Chapel was commissioned by queen Isabel, to be her resting place. It was build in what is called Isabel Gothic. Unfortunately taking photographs of the inside is not allowed and all I have to show is a sneaky video I was shooting until I got caught.

Kraljica Izabela je za svoje zadnje počivališče naročila izgradnjo Kraljevske kapele. Ta je zgrajena v stilu, ki se imenuje Izabelinska gotika. Na žalost fotografiranje je bilo prepovedano in vse kar lahko pokažem je video, ki sem pokušal na skrivaj posneti, dokler me niso ujeli.




Finally, we have entered the Cathedral. Huge space and very bright. Four rows of five large classicall pillars form a nave and two aisles on both sides. Last three pillars before the Capilla Major contains gold plated organs on both sides. Transepts is not formally defined, it is drowned by the wideness of nave and aisles. Light is coming in through large clerestory high above and reflects on whitewashed walls. The outermost aisles are continued by ambulatory. Instead usual semicircular apse, Diego de Siloe designed unusual circular Capilla Major, covered by dome, supported by 12 thick Corinthian pillars. 

Končno vstopiva v katedralo. Ogromen prostor in zelo svetel. Štiri vrste s petimi klasičnimi stebri tvorijo glavno ladjo in na vsaki strani še dve stranski ladji. Zadnja stri stebra v vrsti pred Capillo Major podpirajo z zlatom obložene orgle. Transept (ne vem kako temu rečemo po slovensko, ker so slovenski internetni viri bolj revni) ni jasno definiran, ker je utopljen v prostranost glavne in stranskih ladji. Svetloba prihaja skozi velika okna klirestorija in se odbija od pobeljenih zidov. Zunanji stranski ladji se nadaljujeta v ambulatorij. Namesto polkrožne apse je Diego de Siloe ustvaril neobičajno Capillo Major, pokrito za kupolo, ki jo podpira 12 masivnih Korintskih stebrov.






To be continued

Se nadaljuje