Saturday, February 16, 2013

Baeza

I do realize that I am writing now the memoirs of travel rather then actual travel journal. Unfortunately every day obligations limit severely the time I can write. But I am determined to finish the job and to describe the wonderful times we had in Spain.
It was the time for us to leave Granada. Next destination was Cordoba. We had planned to visit, on the way, a number of smaller towns advertised in different tourist guides. But it was raining and our first attempt of visiting the cathedral of Jaén failed miserably. We got lost (in spite of GPS) in a maze of narrow streets and and ended up in dead end. With considerable difficulties we have succeeded turning around our rented Ford focus  without a dent. Not being able to find any parking spot nearby we decided to push on. At the end we decided to visit only Baeza and Úbeda.  
Jasno mi je, da sedaj pišem memoarje in ne potovalni dnevnik. Žal vsakodnevne obveznosti močno omejujejo čas, ki ga lahko posvetim pisanju bloga. Odločen sem, da začeto tudi dokončam in opišem kako lepo sva se imela v Španiji.
Čas je bil, da zapustiva Granado. Naslednji cilj je bila Cordoba. Načrtovala sva obisk številnih majhnih mest ob poti, ki jih opisujejo, da ne rečem reklamirajo v različnih turističnih vodičih. Vendar je deževalo in najin prvi poskus, da obiščeva katedralo v Jaén je bedno propadel. Zašla sva (kljub GPSu) v labirintu ozkih uličic in končala v slepi ulici. Z velikimi težavami sva obrnila brez večjih prask najin najeti Ford fokus in ker nikakor nisva uspela priti do spodobnega parkirišča sva odrinila naprej. Na koncu sva se odločila, da obiščeva samo Baezo in Ubedo.


In Baeza parking was not a problem. We have stopped when we have glimpsed this beautiful medieval square.  The square has got its name from the Fountain of lions which stands there. The figures, women figure at th top of the column and lions and oxen at the bottom are according to some historians brought from the nearby Roman city Castulo (Linares). The female figure is tought to be Imilice Hanibal`s  wife.

V Baezi s parkirnim prostorom ni bilo težav. Ustavila sva se, ko sva zagledala čudovit srednjeveški trg. Trg je ime dobil po Fontani levov, ki stoji tam. Figuro ženske na vrhu stebra in figure levov ter vola ob vznožju naj bi, po mnenju nekaterih zgodovinarjev prinesli iz bližnjega Rimskega mesta Castulo (Linares). Ženska figura naj bi predstavljala Imilice Hanibalovo ženo.



Puerta de Jaén y Arco del Villalar are probably part of the old fortification, which was first demolished by queen Isabela in 1467 and than rebuild at the occasion of Charles V visit in 1526. Arco del Villalar which is leaning on the Puerta de Jaén was built to celebrate victory in the battle of Villalar. 

Puerta de Jaén y Arco del Villalar so verjetno del stare utrdbe, ki naj bi jo Isabela Katoliška delno podrla 1476 in ki so ponovno zgrajena leta 1526 ob obisku Karla V. Arco del Villalar, ki se naslanja na Jaenska vrata je zgrajen v čast zmage v bitki pri Villalarju.


Rainy and empty streets are leading us in to the depths of Renaissance Baeza.  Best-preserved examples of Italian Renaissance architecture put Baeza on World Heritage Sites list. Textiles industry made Baeza reach in 16th century. Interestingly collapse of this economy preserved many buildings because nothing new was built. 

Deževne in prazne ulice naju vodijo po renesančni Baezi. Najbolj ohranjeni primeri Italijanske renesančne arhitekture so uvrstili Baezo na seznam Svetovne dediščine. Nagli razvoj tekstilne industrije je obogatil prebivalce Baeze v 16 stoletju. Zanimivo je pa dejstvo, da je ravno kolaps te industrije v 17 stoletju preprečil rušenje in pozidavo z novimi stavbami ter renesančno dediščino ohranil.


Palacio de Jabalquinto was built on the orders of Juan Alfonso Benavides, king Ferdinand second cousin. The facade is in Isabeline Gothic. Two cylindrical pilasters with Plateresque capitals with mocárabes are siding the entrance gate. Mocárabes  are fine ornamental designs at the base of the capital which consists of a complex array of vertical prisms resembling stalactites. Inside court is done in Renascence style with Baroque staircase. 

Palacio de Jabalquinto so zgradili po naročilu Juana Alfonsa Benavidesa bratranca (daljnega) kralja Ferdinanda. Fasada je Izabelinska Gotika. Dva cilindrična stebra s Plateresko kapitljem in mocarabom okvirjata vhod. Mocarab je ornament sestavljen iz kompleksne mreže vertikalnih prizem, ki ponazarjajo stalaktite. V notranjosti najdemo renesančno dvorišče in mogočno Baročno stopnišče.




Cathedral of the Nativity of Our Lady was built on top of the former Morish mosque. It become christian church in 1147 and then again in 1227. It was mostly rebuilt in Gothic style with Renascence elements added by  Andrés de Vandelvira, when he completed the building.

Katedrala Kristusovega rojstva Matere Božje je zgrajena na mavrski mošeji. Posvečena je bila prvič v leti 1147 in nato ponovno v leti 1227. prezidana večinoma v Gotskem stilu z renesančnimi elementi, ki jih je dodal Andrés de Vandelvira, ko je zgradbo dokončal.


Hungry and cold we were looking for place to eat. This proved to be quite a task. We have finaly discovered little caffe hidden in rather modern days loggia, where they have offered us tasty boccadillo. Fed and warmed up we have moved on through the fog towards our car and on to Ubeda.

Lačna in premražena sva iskala odprt lokal, kjer bi lahko kaj pojedla. Izkazalo se je, da to ni najbolj enostavno. Končno sva dokrila kavarnico skrito v moderni loži, kjer so nam ponudili okusen boccadillo.  Sita in ogreta sva ponovno odrinila skozi meglo proti avtomobilu in Ubedi.