IRAN D2, 03.03.2013

Hudo zgodaj vstanemo. Zajtrk omejen na tiste, ki so prišli prvi. Ostali smo dobili požirek kave in nekaj koruznih kosmičev v mleku. Srečniki, ki lahko uživajo sladkor so bili deležni tudi kolača. Tehran ob tej uri prazen. Ko pridemo do včasih mednarodnega letališča sedaj namenjenega notranjim letom se že zdani. Sledijo običajni varnostni pregledi. Tokrat ženske posebej moški posebej. Kontrola ni zelo temeljita zato vodo odnesem naprej. Tudi računalnika ni bilo potrebno pokazati. Check in je bil pravi iranski. Kovčke smo oddali skupaj in počakali, da nam iranska vodička razdeli vstopne kartone. Po še eni kontroli se počasi približamo letalu. Tehran nam privošči jutro brez smoga s čudovitim pogledom na Elbruz, ki ga mnogi poskušajo fotografirati ob jeznem negodovanju letališkega osebja. Letalo in polet sam brez težav. Postregli so na bolje kot na Adriji. Prtljaga je prišla vsa. Skratka bravo – zelo profesionalno.

We are up terribly early. Breakfast was limited to those who arrived first. The rest of us had to tough it out on a sip of black coffee and some corn flakes in milk. The lucky ones, who still enjoy sweets, were offered a cake. Tehran this early is completely empty. At the daybreak we had arrived at what used to be an international airport nowadays used for mostly internal flights. Before entering usual security check. Only this time we were strictly segregated by sex. Security check was not very thorough, so I was able to keep my water bottle. I also didn’t have to show my computer. Check-in was Iranian style. We all dropped our luggage together and then our Iranian lady guide distributed boarding tickets. Tehran awarded us smog free morning, with a beautiful sight of Elbruz. Many of our travelling companions had tried to take pictures of this beautiful mountain causing loud and angry protests of airport personnel. The airplane was quite comfortable and the flight uneventful. The service was much better then on our own Adria Airways. All luggage had arrived safely. In short – BRAVO – very professional.

Letališče Kerman zapustimo prijetno presenečeni, brez rentgenske kontrole. Z avtobusom, ki bo naš do konca potovanja, se zapeljemo mimo hotela do vrtov Shazdeh . Shazdeh pomeni Prinčevski. Nastali so v 19 stoletje med vladavino dinastije Qajar. Gradili so jih okoli 1850. Vrtovi so zasnovani okoli dveh umetnih potočkov in osrednjih teras z bazeni, ki so žal bili prazni in umazani. Verjetno smo prezgodaj. Le nekatera drevesa so pričela sramežljivo cveteti. Ideja sama vrt v puščavi je zanimiva. Še vedno jo izkoriščajo, gradijo namreč podaljšek. Od vhoda se vrt počasi vzpenja. Na vrhu je skupina stavb, v kateri je slabo prepoznavna kapelica (vsaj nam neposvečenim) in trgovinica z zanimivimi spominki. Na levo je neka vrsta čajnice ali kadilnice, kjer se obiskovalci sproščajo.

We had left Kerman airport pleasantly surprised- no X ray security check. With the bus, which will be ours for the duration of the journey, we had been driven by the hotel towards Shazdeh garden. Shazdeh garden means Prince’s garden. It was built in 19th century, around 1850, during the rule of Qujar dynasty. Gardens are based around two streams and central terraces with the large pools, which were unfortunately dirty and empty. Oh well, I suppose we were too early in the year for gardens to be presentable. Just few shy blooming trees were around. The idea itself, the gardens in the desert is fascinating. It is still exploited because they were building an extension. From the entrance the garden is sloping up. At the top there is a group of buildings, in which the chapel or prayer room is located, together with the small souvenir shop full of interesting souvenirs. To the left there is kind of tea house, where people relax smoking water pipes.

V samem mestu Mahan obiščemo grobnico sufijskega pesnika Shah Nematollah Vali. Impresivni minareti in kupola. V notranjosti nad grobom prozoren sarkofag poln denarja. Shah Nematollah Vali je živel v 14. In 15. Stoletju, natančneje od 1330–1431. Potoval in poučeval je po Perziji in Indiji. Če vas zanima njegova poezija http://erfan-onabadi.com/Selected_Articles/poems_from_Shah_Nematollah_Val/body_poems_from_shah_nematollah_val.html). Žal nam je misel na poezijo pregnalo dejstvo, da nas je vse malo zeblo in da smo bili že pošteno lačni. Ko smo se končno obuli se opravimo v mesto iskati hrano. Vendar trgovci v Mahanu niso bili pripravljeni na trumo turistov, ki so na nerazumljuvem jeziku zahtevali čudne stvari. Na koncu nam ob pomoči vodičke uspe dobiti zelo okusne čevape. Tudi v Iranu jih imenujejo podobno. Cena dobrega kosila je bila 1 €.

In the Mahan we visit the mausoleum of Sufi poet Shah Nematollah Vali. Impressive minarets and dome. Inside, above the grave, there is an transparent sarcophagi full of money. Shah Nematollah Vali lived in 14th and 15th century, precisely from 1330 to 1431. He was travelling and theaching all over Persia and India. If you are interested in his poetry: http://erfan-gonabadi.com/Selected_Articles/poems_from_Shah_Nematollah_Val/body_poems_from_shah_nematollah_val.html. Unfortunately our interest in poetry was greatly diminished by the fact that we were miserably cold and very hungry. Finely we had put our shoes back and went looking for the food. But merchants in Mahan were not ready for a bunch of strangers, speaking strange language (English) and asking for strange things. At the end, with the help of our Iranian guide we were able to get some extremely tasty kebab. It seems that Iranian name for the stuff is similar. The price of this very good lunch was 1 €.

Vrnemo se v Kerman, kjer se najprej dolgo potepamo po bazarju. Ogledamo si neke vrste etnografski muzej, ki z razstavo voščenih lutk opisuje dogajanje v tipičnem kopališču. Turistov tu ne vidijo prav veliko. Vsako toliko se kdo okorajži in vpraša od kod smo. Na možnost komunikacije s tujci so zelo ponosni. Poskušava ugotoviti, kje bi kupila tradicionalno ruto in tudi tu nam priskoči na pomoč ena od strank. Skozi bazar se odpravimo do Jameh mošeje (Petkova mošeja). Naše prvo srečanje z Iranskimi mošejami. Iranska mošeja je obzidan prostor s štirimi Iwani (molilne niše). Strehe ni. Verjetno strehe ne potrebujejo. Ta v Kermanu je pozidana leta 1350 in je podobna tisti v Yazdu.

We had headed back to Kerman, for a rather prolonged stroll in a bazaar. We also had visited kind of ethnographic museum there, featuring Madame Tussauds like wax figures, describing the life in typical bath-house. They don’t see many tourist round here. Every so often someone will summon enough nerve to approach us and ask where are we coming from. People are very proud of their ability to communicate with the strangers. My wife and I had tried to buy a traditional scarf and another customer immediately came to our assistance. Next we had visited Jameh mosque (Friday mosque). This had been our first meeting with the Iranian mosque. Iranian mosque is build around court like space with four Iwans (praying niche). There is no roof. I suppose it is not needed. The mosque in Kerman was built in 1350 and it is similar to one in Yazd.

Nazadnje obiščemo še eno zgradbo s kupolo Jabalieh Dome za katero se ne ve koliko je stara in kaj je predstavljala predno so jo v Islamu spremenili v molilnico. Danes je muzej. Nato se odpravimo še v hotel. Soliden 5 zvezdic, edini.

The last visit of the day was to Jabalieh Dome. No one knows exactly how old this building and what was its function, before it was converted to prayer room. Today it is a museum. Next we had finely returned to the hotel. Solid five stars, the only one.

IRAN D1 02.03.2013

Če se sprašujete kako sem iz Baeze zašel v Iran je odgovor relativno enostaven in vsakodneven. O potovanju po Španiji sem pisal za nazaj in o Iranu bom ravno tako. Nikakor mi ne uspeva pisati blog sproti. No v Iranu to nisem niti želel, glede na cenzuro in blokade svetovnega spleta. Od zadnje objave so nama se zgodila kar dva potovanja, najprej sva šla marca v Iran in nato med prvomajskimi prazniki v Benetke (če temu lahko rečemo potovanje). Objavljal nisem ker mi je zmanjkalo časa. Zato bom poskusil to nadoknaditi sedaj z bolj pogostimi objavami.  Vračal se bom tudi v Španijo saj tamkajšnjo zgodbo še nisem dokončal. Objave bom označil z eno oznako, tako da bodo razvrščene po državah, če bi jih kod želel brati zaporedoma.
If you are wandering how have I got from Baeza to Iran the answer is quite simple and plain. I was describing our journey in Spain from memory and I will do the same for Iran. Somehow I keep failing to write the blog as I go. Well in Iran, considering the censorship and internet blockade that wouldn't be a good idea anyway. Since the last post two journeys happened. First in march we have been to Iran and during the May holidays we went to Venice (if you can consider that a journey). I have stopped posting because I didn't have enough  time. I will try to make up for this by posting more frequently. I will be back to Spain from time to time, because I didn't finish my story there. I will label the post so any one who would like to  read about one country would be able to do that.

Zapis, ki ga bom objavljal od tu naprej je nastal že med potovanjem. Vsak večer sem si namreč zapisal nekaj kratkih vtisov. Prevod v angleščino bom pa opravil sedaj.

What I am about to post from here onward I have written during the trip. Every evening I have written down few short impressions. English translation I will be doing as I go along.

Prvi dan za nami. Izjemno naporno. Pričetek potovanja - Ljubljana Dolgi most. Proti Veneciji. V Veneciji se prvič zaplete. Letalo Emiratov ne more zapreti vrat, Zamujamo zelo. Odletimo z skoraj enourno zamudo. Toliko o Emiratih. Letala so relativno udobna tudi v ekonomskem razredu. Čakanje nas je pa vendarle zdelalo tako, da smo Dubai težko dočakali . Prispeli smo ob 06:00 po lokalnem času. V Sloveniji je bila ura 03:00. V Tehranu pa 05:30. Dubai primerno topel in zaradi zamude kaotičen. Nekako se le vseh 44 vkrca ne letalo in odrinemo zopet z enourno zamudo. Tehran nas pozdravi z zatohlim letališčem in vrstami pred kontrolo potnih listov. Temu je po radostnem snidenju s prtljago in nekoliko nespretnim poskusom oponašanja Iranskih modnih navad, ponovni rentgenski pregled prtljage, za katerega ni bilo jasno ali je varnostne oz carinske narave. Vkrcamo se na avtobus in se odpravimo v Tehran.

First day is over. Very exhausting. Journey starting point - Ljubljana Dolgi Most. To Venice. In Venice first complication. Thay could not close the door on Emirate's plane. We are very late. Taking off with one hour delay. So much about Emirates.The airplane was relatively comfortable even in the economy class. But waiting has took its toll and we could hardly wait to reach Dubai. We have arrived at 06:00 am local time. It was 03:00 am in Slovenia. In Teheran it was 05:00 am. Dubai was nicely warm and somewhat chaotic, because of the delay. Somehow all 44 of us boarded the next plane and we took off, again with one hour delay. Tehran have greeted us with stuffy airport and long lines in front of the passport control. After a joyful reunion with luggage and somewhat clumsy attempts imitating Iranian fashion habits, we had to pass through another X-ray check of our luggage, for which it was not quite clear was it for security or custom purposes. Finally we have boarded the bus and continued towards Tehran.

Obubožanje je vidno, na salbo  vzdrževanih zgradbah, na avtomobilih vendar ne na obrazih. Tudi obleke so podobne tistim, ki jih sicer vidiš na Bližnjem vzhodu. Bazar v Teheranu naj bi bil relativno nov in zelo zanimiv, vendar  je pa pravo človeško mravljišče. Naša skupina je gotovo bodla v oči. Vendar razen vljudnega zanimanja za to od kod smo nobenih drugih težav. Mladenič z nekoliko boljšo angleščino nas nekaj časa vztrajno spraševal kaj menimo o Irancih in Iranu. Zdelo se nama je, da je z našimi odgovori, kako je Iran lepa dežela in kako so Iranci lepi in prijazni ljudje, ni bil zadovoljen. Ali je to bila namerna provokacija ali je mladenič upal, da bo slab vtis pri tujcih prispeval rahljanju vezi, ki Iran dušijo in potiskajo v bedo, ne bom nikoli vedel.

 One can see impoverishment on badly maintained buildings, on old cars, but not on the people faces. People are dressed like anywhere else in  the Middle East. Tehran Bazaar is not very old but it was still very interesting, like real human anthill. Our group must have stood out. But there was no trouble only polite inquiries about where we are coming from. One young man with quite passable English was very persistent   in asking us what do we think about Iran and Iranian people. It has seemed to us that he was not happy with us answering that Iran is beautiful country and Iranians are good looking and very kind. I am not sure  if this was an intentional provocation or if  young man was hoping that bad opinion from the foreigner might somehow loosen the ties that are suffocating Iran.

Palača Quajar šahov, ki sem ji pozabil ime in sem naknadno ugotovil, da gre za palačo Golestan  je naslednji postanek. Po obveznih ne preveč uspešnih arhitekturnih posnetkih, obiščemo tudi bleščečo notranjost, ki jo seveda ne smemo fotografirati. Nataknejo nam neke plišaste copatke, s katerimi zglancamo  marmorno stopnišče, ki nas pod voščenimi figurami šahovih stražarjev pripelje v sobane za sprejeme, v katerih se nahaja porcelanasto bogastvo, ki bilo dvoru podeljeno skozi 19. Stoletje. 

Qajar shah  palace for which I have forgotten the name, only to find out later that it is Golestan palace was our next stop. After obligatory not very successful architectural photography we have visited shiny interior which we are not allowed to photograph. We have got some plush slippers to put on our shoes, with which tourist shine up the marble staircase which take us, under the watchful eyes of wax figures of the shah guards, to a huge receiving hall full of porcelain gifts from the 19th century.

Sledi ogled neprecenljivega bogastva v trezorju Narodne banke. Do tam ne prideš kar tako. Najprej smo zardi lažjega pustili vse torbe na avtobusu s fotoaparati, ki bi tudi tu bili nekoristna prtljaga. Nato smo morali skozi dva, ponavljam dva detektorja kovin. Na enem so se v glavnem spravili na moške, na drugem pa na ženske. Tokrat smo morali pustiti vse mobilne telefone zunaj (zaradi fotografiranja). Končno si v trezorju ogledujemo bogastvo. Dragih kamnov je toliko, da se na koncu niti ne zavedaš enormne finančne vrednosti, ostanejo samo še umetelno izdelani artefakti, kakršne smo že marsikje videli.

  
Next we are visiting the invaluable treasures in the vault of the National Bank. It is not very easy to get there. To make it easier to pass the security, we had to leave all our bags in the bus, including our cameras, which would be useless luggage anyway. We had to go through two metal detectors, repeating two metal detectors. At the first metal detector it was man they were after and at the second they were checking mostly women. We also had to leave all our cell phones outside (because of the photography).
Finally we are able to  take a look at the treasure. So many precious stones that at the end you hardly appreciate financial enormity of this wealth, all you can see are skilfully designed artifacts such as we have seen in many places.

  

Po ogledu Nacionalne Banke nas odpelje vodička menjati denar. Za 100 € dobiva neverjetni 4.700.000 rialov. Šele po večkratnem štetju 50 tisočakov sva zadovoljna. Imel sva občutek, da naju goljufajo, prvič ker sva dobila tako ugodno menjavo, drugič ker ni bilo možno takoj prešteti tisti obsežni šop bankovcev , ki sva jih dobila.  Ali je zahteva po ponovne štetju prispevala, da je vsota prava ali ne  bova zvedela. 

Obisk muzeja je na našo srečo odpadel in odpeljali so nas v hotel. Hotel je OK. Po tuširanju in krajšem počitku, večerja na vrhu hotela (16 nadstropje), v restavraciji,ki kroži, s prečudovitim pogledom na nočni Tehran. Spat odidemo zgodaj saj odrinemo že pre 6 uro zjutrraj.

After visit to the National Bank our local guide takes us to change money. For 100 € we have got an unbelievable sum of 4.700.000 rials. Only after repeated counting of 50 thousand  bills we were satisfied. We had this distinct feeling that we are being ripped off, first because the rate was so good and second because it was not possible to count immediately so many 50.000 bills. Was our request for repeated counting the reason for correct sum we will never now.
Museum visit was fortunately cancelled and we were taken to the hotel. Hotel is OK. After the shower and short rest there was a dinner at the top of the hotel (16th floor) in the rotating restaurant with beautiful view of the night Tehran. An early bad was needed, we had to push off at six o'clock in the morning.

Baeza

I do realize that I am writing now the memoirs of travel rather then actual travel journal. Unfortunately every day obligations limit severely the time I can write. But I am determined to finish the job and to describe the wonderful times we had in Spain.
It was the time for us to leave Granada. Next destination was Cordoba. We had planned to visit, on the way, a number of smaller towns advertised in different tourist guides. But it was raining and our first attempt of visiting the cathedral of Jaén failed miserably. We got lost (in spite of GPS) in a maze of narrow streets and and ended up in dead end. With considerable difficulties we have succeeded turning around our rented Ford focus  without a dent. Not being able to find any parking spot nearby we decided to push on. At the end we decided to visit only Baeza and Úbeda.  
Jasno mi je, da sedaj pišem memoarje in ne potovalni dnevnik. Žal vsakodnevne obveznosti močno omejujejo čas, ki ga lahko posvetim pisanju bloga. Odločen sem, da začeto tudi dokončam in opišem kako lepo sva se imela v Španiji.
Čas je bil, da zapustiva Granado. Naslednji cilj je bila Cordoba. Načrtovala sva obisk številnih majhnih mest ob poti, ki jih opisujejo, da ne rečem reklamirajo v različnih turističnih vodičih. Vendar je deževalo in najin prvi poskus, da obiščeva katedralo v Jaén je bedno propadel. Zašla sva (kljub GPSu) v labirintu ozkih uličic in končala v slepi ulici. Z velikimi težavami sva obrnila brez večjih prask najin najeti Ford fokus in ker nikakor nisva uspela priti do spodobnega parkirišča sva odrinila naprej. Na koncu sva se odločila, da obiščeva samo Baezo in Ubedo.

In Baeza parking was not a problem. We have stopped when we have glimpsed this beautiful medieval square.  The square has got its name from the Fountain of lions which stands there. The figures, women figure at th top of the column and lions and oxen at the bottom are according to some historians brought from the nearby Roman city Castulo (Linares). The female figure is tought to be Imilice Hanibal`s  wife.

V Baezi s parkirnim prostorom ni bilo težav. Ustavila sva se, ko sva zagledala čudovit srednjeveški trg. Trg je ime dobil po Fontani levov, ki stoji tam. Figuro ženske na vrhu stebra in figure levov ter vola ob vznožju naj bi, po mnenju nekaterih zgodovinarjev prinesli iz bližnjega Rimskega mesta Castulo (Linares). Ženska figura naj bi predstavljala Imilice Hanibalovo ženo.

Puerta de Jaén y Arco del Villalar are probably part of the old fortification, which was first demolished by queen Isabela in 1467 and than rebuild at the occasion of Charles V visit in 1526. Arco del Villalar which is leaning on the Puerta de Jaén was built to celebrate victory in the battle of Villalar. 

Puerta de Jaén y Arco del Villalar so verjetno del stare utrdbe, ki naj bi jo Isabela Katoliška delno podrla 1476 in ki so ponovno zgrajena leta 1526 ob obisku Karla V. Arco del Villalar, ki se naslanja na Jaenska vrata je zgrajen v čast zmage v bitki pri Villalarju.

Rainy and empty streets are leading us in to the depths of Renaissance Baeza.  Best-preserved examples of Italian Renaissance architecture put Baeza on World Heritage Sites list. Textiles industry made Baeza reach in 16th century. Interestingly collapse of this economy preserved many buildings because nothing new was built. 

Deževne in prazne ulice naju vodijo po renesančni Baezi. Najbolj ohranjeni primeri Italijanske renesančne arhitekture so uvrstili Baezo na seznam Svetovne dediščine. Nagli razvoj tekstilne industrije je obogatil prebivalce Baeze v 16 stoletju. Zanimivo je pa dejstvo, da je ravno kolaps te industrije v 17 stoletju preprečil rušenje in pozidavo z novimi stavbami ter renesančno dediščino ohranil.

Palacio de Jabalquinto was built on the orders of Juan Alfonso Benavides, king Ferdinand second cousin. The facade is in Isabeline Gothic. Two cylindrical pilasters with Plateresque capitals with mocárabes are siding the entrance gate. Mocárabes  are fine ornamental designs at the base of the capital which consists of a complex array of vertical prisms resembling stalactites. Inside court is done in Renascence style with Baroque staircase. 

Palacio de Jabalquinto so zgradili po naročilu Juana Alfonsa Benavidesa bratranca (daljnega) kralja Ferdinanda. Fasada je Izabelinska Gotika. Dva cilindrična stebra s Plateresko kapitljem in mocarabom okvirjata vhod. Mocarab je ornament sestavljen iz kompleksne mreže vertikalnih prizem, ki ponazarjajo stalaktite. V notranjosti najdemo renesančno dvorišče in mogočno Baročno stopnišče.

Cathedral of the Nativity of Our Lady was built on top of the former Morish mosque. It become christian church in 1147 and then again in 1227. It was mostly rebuilt in Gothic style with Renascence elements added by  Andrés de Vandelvira, when he completed the building.

Katedrala Kristusovega rojstva Matere Božje je zgrajena na mavrski mošeji. Posvečena je bila prvič v leti 1147 in nato ponovno v leti 1227. prezidana večinoma v Gotskem stilu z renesančnimi elementi, ki jih je dodal Andrés de Vandelvira, ko je zgradbo dokončal.

Hungry and cold we were looking for place to eat. This proved to be quite a task. We have finaly discovered little caffe hidden in rather modern days loggia, where they have offered us tasty boccadillo. Fed and warmed up we have moved on through the fog towards our car and on to Ubeda.

Lačna in premražena sva iskala odprt lokal, kjer bi lahko kaj pojedla. Izkazalo se je, da to ni najbolj enostavno. Končno sva dokrila kavarnico skrito v moderni loži, kjer so nam ponudili okusen boccadillo.  Sita in ogreta sva ponovno odrinila skozi meglo proti avtomobilu in Ubedi.