IRAN D1 02.03.2013

Če se sprašujete kako sem iz Baeze zašel v Iran je odgovor relativno enostaven in vsakodneven. O potovanju po Španiji sem pisal za nazaj in o Iranu bom ravno tako. Nikakor mi ne uspeva pisati blog sproti. No v Iranu to nisem niti želel, glede na cenzuro in blokade svetovnega spleta. Od zadnje objave so nama se zgodila kar dva potovanja, najprej sva šla marca v Iran in nato med prvomajskimi prazniki v Benetke (če temu lahko rečemo potovanje). Objavljal nisem ker mi je zmanjkalo časa. Zato bom poskusil to nadoknaditi sedaj z bolj pogostimi objavami.  Vračal se bom tudi v Španijo saj tamkajšnjo zgodbo še nisem dokončal. Objave bom označil z eno oznako, tako da bodo razvrščene po državah, če bi jih kod želel brati zaporedoma.
If you are wandering how have I got from Baeza to Iran the answer is quite simple and plain. I was describing our journey in Spain from memory and I will do the same for Iran. Somehow I keep failing to write the blog as I go. Well in Iran, considering the censorship and internet blockade that wouldn't be a good idea anyway. Since the last post two journeys happened. First in march we have been to Iran and during the May holidays we went to Venice (if you can consider that a journey). I have stopped posting because I didn't have enough  time. I will try to make up for this by posting more frequently. I will be back to Spain from time to time, because I didn't finish my story there. I will label the post so any one who would like to  read about one country would be able to do that.

Zapis, ki ga bom objavljal od tu naprej je nastal že med potovanjem. Vsak večer sem si namreč zapisal nekaj kratkih vtisov. Prevod v angleščino bom pa opravil sedaj.

What I am about to post from here onward I have written during the trip. Every evening I have written down few short impressions. English translation I will be doing as I go along.

Prvi dan za nami. Izjemno naporno. Pričetek potovanja - Ljubljana Dolgi most. Proti Veneciji. V Veneciji se prvič zaplete. Letalo Emiratov ne more zapreti vrat, Zamujamo zelo. Odletimo z skoraj enourno zamudo. Toliko o Emiratih. Letala so relativno udobna tudi v ekonomskem razredu. Čakanje nas je pa vendarle zdelalo tako, da smo Dubai težko dočakali . Prispeli smo ob 06:00 po lokalnem času. V Sloveniji je bila ura 03:00. V Tehranu pa 05:30. Dubai primerno topel in zaradi zamude kaotičen. Nekako se le vseh 44 vkrca ne letalo in odrinemo zopet z enourno zamudo. Tehran nas pozdravi z zatohlim letališčem in vrstami pred kontrolo potnih listov. Temu je po radostnem snidenju s prtljago in nekoliko nespretnim poskusom oponašanja Iranskih modnih navad, ponovni rentgenski pregled prtljage, za katerega ni bilo jasno ali je varnostne oz carinske narave. Vkrcamo se na avtobus in se odpravimo v Tehran.

First day is over. Very exhausting. Journey starting point - Ljubljana Dolgi Most. To Venice. In Venice first complication. Thay could not close the door on Emirate's plane. We are very late. Taking off with one hour delay. So much about Emirates.The airplane was relatively comfortable even in the economy class. But waiting has took its toll and we could hardly wait to reach Dubai. We have arrived at 06:00 am local time. It was 03:00 am in Slovenia. In Teheran it was 05:00 am. Dubai was nicely warm and somewhat chaotic, because of the delay. Somehow all 44 of us boarded the next plane and we took off, again with one hour delay. Tehran have greeted us with stuffy airport and long lines in front of the passport control. After a joyful reunion with luggage and somewhat clumsy attempts imitating Iranian fashion habits, we had to pass through another X-ray check of our luggage, for which it was not quite clear was it for security or custom purposes. Finally we have boarded the bus and continued towards Tehran.

Obubožanje je vidno, na salbo  vzdrževanih zgradbah, na avtomobilih vendar ne na obrazih. Tudi obleke so podobne tistim, ki jih sicer vidiš na Bližnjem vzhodu. Bazar v Teheranu naj bi bil relativno nov in zelo zanimiv, vendar  je pa pravo človeško mravljišče. Naša skupina je gotovo bodla v oči. Vendar razen vljudnega zanimanja za to od kod smo nobenih drugih težav. Mladenič z nekoliko boljšo angleščino nas nekaj časa vztrajno spraševal kaj menimo o Irancih in Iranu. Zdelo se nama je, da je z našimi odgovori, kako je Iran lepa dežela in kako so Iranci lepi in prijazni ljudje, ni bil zadovoljen. Ali je to bila namerna provokacija ali je mladenič upal, da bo slab vtis pri tujcih prispeval rahljanju vezi, ki Iran dušijo in potiskajo v bedo, ne bom nikoli vedel.

 One can see impoverishment on badly maintained buildings, on old cars, but not on the people faces. People are dressed like anywhere else in  the Middle East. Tehran Bazaar is not very old but it was still very interesting, like real human anthill. Our group must have stood out. But there was no trouble only polite inquiries about where we are coming from. One young man with quite passable English was very persistent   in asking us what do we think about Iran and Iranian people. It has seemed to us that he was not happy with us answering that Iran is beautiful country and Iranians are good looking and very kind. I am not sure  if this was an intentional provocation or if  young man was hoping that bad opinion from the foreigner might somehow loosen the ties that are suffocating Iran.

Palača Quajar šahov, ki sem ji pozabil ime in sem naknadno ugotovil, da gre za palačo Golestan  je naslednji postanek. Po obveznih ne preveč uspešnih arhitekturnih posnetkih, obiščemo tudi bleščečo notranjost, ki jo seveda ne smemo fotografirati. Nataknejo nam neke plišaste copatke, s katerimi zglancamo  marmorno stopnišče, ki nas pod voščenimi figurami šahovih stražarjev pripelje v sobane za sprejeme, v katerih se nahaja porcelanasto bogastvo, ki bilo dvoru podeljeno skozi 19. Stoletje. 

Qajar shah  palace for which I have forgotten the name, only to find out later that it is Golestan palace was our next stop. After obligatory not very successful architectural photography we have visited shiny interior which we are not allowed to photograph. We have got some plush slippers to put on our shoes, with which tourist shine up the marble staircase which take us, under the watchful eyes of wax figures of the shah guards, to a huge receiving hall full of porcelain gifts from the 19th century.

Sledi ogled neprecenljivega bogastva v trezorju Narodne banke. Do tam ne prideš kar tako. Najprej smo zardi lažjega pustili vse torbe na avtobusu s fotoaparati, ki bi tudi tu bili nekoristna prtljaga. Nato smo morali skozi dva, ponavljam dva detektorja kovin. Na enem so se v glavnem spravili na moške, na drugem pa na ženske. Tokrat smo morali pustiti vse mobilne telefone zunaj (zaradi fotografiranja). Končno si v trezorju ogledujemo bogastvo. Dragih kamnov je toliko, da se na koncu niti ne zavedaš enormne finančne vrednosti, ostanejo samo še umetelno izdelani artefakti, kakršne smo že marsikje videli.

  
Next we are visiting the invaluable treasures in the vault of the National Bank. It is not very easy to get there. To make it easier to pass the security, we had to leave all our bags in the bus, including our cameras, which would be useless luggage anyway. We had to go through two metal detectors, repeating two metal detectors. At the first metal detector it was man they were after and at the second they were checking mostly women. We also had to leave all our cell phones outside (because of the photography).
Finally we are able to  take a look at the treasure. So many precious stones that at the end you hardly appreciate financial enormity of this wealth, all you can see are skilfully designed artifacts such as we have seen in many places.

  

Po ogledu Nacionalne Banke nas odpelje vodička menjati denar. Za 100 € dobiva neverjetni 4.700.000 rialov. Šele po večkratnem štetju 50 tisočakov sva zadovoljna. Imel sva občutek, da naju goljufajo, prvič ker sva dobila tako ugodno menjavo, drugič ker ni bilo možno takoj prešteti tisti obsežni šop bankovcev , ki sva jih dobila.  Ali je zahteva po ponovne štetju prispevala, da je vsota prava ali ne  bova zvedela. 

Obisk muzeja je na našo srečo odpadel in odpeljali so nas v hotel. Hotel je OK. Po tuširanju in krajšem počitku, večerja na vrhu hotela (16 nadstropje), v restavraciji,ki kroži, s prečudovitim pogledom na nočni Tehran. Spat odidemo zgodaj saj odrinemo že pre 6 uro zjutrraj.

After visit to the National Bank our local guide takes us to change money. For 100 € we have got an unbelievable sum of 4.700.000 rials. Only after repeated counting of 50 thousand  bills we were satisfied. We had this distinct feeling that we are being ripped off, first because the rate was so good and second because it was not possible to count immediately so many 50.000 bills. Was our request for repeated counting the reason for correct sum we will never now.
Museum visit was fortunately cancelled and we were taken to the hotel. Hotel is OK. After the shower and short rest there was a dinner at the top of the hotel (16th floor) in the rotating restaurant with beautiful view of the night Tehran. An early bad was needed, we had to push off at six o'clock in the morning.

Baeza

I do realize that I am writing now the memoirs of travel rather then actual travel journal. Unfortunately every day obligations limit severely the time I can write. But I am determined to finish the job and to describe the wonderful times we had in Spain.
It was the time for us to leave Granada. Next destination was Cordoba. We had planned to visit, on the way, a number of smaller towns advertised in different tourist guides. But it was raining and our first attempt of visiting the cathedral of Jaén failed miserably. We got lost (in spite of GPS) in a maze of narrow streets and and ended up in dead end. With considerable difficulties we have succeeded turning around our rented Ford focus  without a dent. Not being able to find any parking spot nearby we decided to push on. At the end we decided to visit only Baeza and Úbeda.  
Jasno mi je, da sedaj pišem memoarje in ne potovalni dnevnik. Žal vsakodnevne obveznosti močno omejujejo čas, ki ga lahko posvetim pisanju bloga. Odločen sem, da začeto tudi dokončam in opišem kako lepo sva se imela v Španiji.
Čas je bil, da zapustiva Granado. Naslednji cilj je bila Cordoba. Načrtovala sva obisk številnih majhnih mest ob poti, ki jih opisujejo, da ne rečem reklamirajo v različnih turističnih vodičih. Vendar je deževalo in najin prvi poskus, da obiščeva katedralo v Jaén je bedno propadel. Zašla sva (kljub GPSu) v labirintu ozkih uličic in končala v slepi ulici. Z velikimi težavami sva obrnila brez večjih prask najin najeti Ford fokus in ker nikakor nisva uspela priti do spodobnega parkirišča sva odrinila naprej. Na koncu sva se odločila, da obiščeva samo Baezo in Ubedo.

In Baeza parking was not a problem. We have stopped when we have glimpsed this beautiful medieval square.  The square has got its name from the Fountain of lions which stands there. The figures, women figure at th top of the column and lions and oxen at the bottom are according to some historians brought from the nearby Roman city Castulo (Linares). The female figure is tought to be Imilice Hanibal`s  wife.

V Baezi s parkirnim prostorom ni bilo težav. Ustavila sva se, ko sva zagledala čudovit srednjeveški trg. Trg je ime dobil po Fontani levov, ki stoji tam. Figuro ženske na vrhu stebra in figure levov ter vola ob vznožju naj bi, po mnenju nekaterih zgodovinarjev prinesli iz bližnjega Rimskega mesta Castulo (Linares). Ženska figura naj bi predstavljala Imilice Hanibalovo ženo.

Puerta de Jaén y Arco del Villalar are probably part of the old fortification, which was first demolished by queen Isabela in 1467 and than rebuild at the occasion of Charles V visit in 1526. Arco del Villalar which is leaning on the Puerta de Jaén was built to celebrate victory in the battle of Villalar. 

Puerta de Jaén y Arco del Villalar so verjetno del stare utrdbe, ki naj bi jo Isabela Katoliška delno podrla 1476 in ki so ponovno zgrajena leta 1526 ob obisku Karla V. Arco del Villalar, ki se naslanja na Jaenska vrata je zgrajen v čast zmage v bitki pri Villalarju.

Rainy and empty streets are leading us in to the depths of Renaissance Baeza.  Best-preserved examples of Italian Renaissance architecture put Baeza on World Heritage Sites list. Textiles industry made Baeza reach in 16th century. Interestingly collapse of this economy preserved many buildings because nothing new was built. 

Deževne in prazne ulice naju vodijo po renesančni Baezi. Najbolj ohranjeni primeri Italijanske renesančne arhitekture so uvrstili Baezo na seznam Svetovne dediščine. Nagli razvoj tekstilne industrije je obogatil prebivalce Baeze v 16 stoletju. Zanimivo je pa dejstvo, da je ravno kolaps te industrije v 17 stoletju preprečil rušenje in pozidavo z novimi stavbami ter renesančno dediščino ohranil.

Palacio de Jabalquinto was built on the orders of Juan Alfonso Benavides, king Ferdinand second cousin. The facade is in Isabeline Gothic. Two cylindrical pilasters with Plateresque capitals with mocárabes are siding the entrance gate. Mocárabes  are fine ornamental designs at the base of the capital which consists of a complex array of vertical prisms resembling stalactites. Inside court is done in Renascence style with Baroque staircase. 

Palacio de Jabalquinto so zgradili po naročilu Juana Alfonsa Benavidesa bratranca (daljnega) kralja Ferdinanda. Fasada je Izabelinska Gotika. Dva cilindrična stebra s Plateresko kapitljem in mocarabom okvirjata vhod. Mocarab je ornament sestavljen iz kompleksne mreže vertikalnih prizem, ki ponazarjajo stalaktite. V notranjosti najdemo renesančno dvorišče in mogočno Baročno stopnišče.

Cathedral of the Nativity of Our Lady was built on top of the former Morish mosque. It become christian church in 1147 and then again in 1227. It was mostly rebuilt in Gothic style with Renascence elements added by  Andrés de Vandelvira, when he completed the building.

Katedrala Kristusovega rojstva Matere Božje je zgrajena na mavrski mošeji. Posvečena je bila prvič v leti 1147 in nato ponovno v leti 1227. prezidana večinoma v Gotskem stilu z renesančnimi elementi, ki jih je dodal Andrés de Vandelvira, ko je zgradbo dokončal.

Hungry and cold we were looking for place to eat. This proved to be quite a task. We have finaly discovered little caffe hidden in rather modern days loggia, where they have offered us tasty boccadillo. Fed and warmed up we have moved on through the fog towards our car and on to Ubeda.

Lačna in premražena sva iskala odprt lokal, kjer bi lahko kaj pojedla. Izkazalo se je, da to ni najbolj enostavno. Končno sva dokrila kavarnico skrito v moderni loži, kjer so nam ponudili okusen boccadillo.  Sita in ogreta sva ponovno odrinila skozi meglo proti avtomobilu in Ubedi.

Potepanja po Granadi 2 / Wandering around Granada 2

Siesta is a time of rest. It seems to be observed rigidly. Everything is closing down so you don’t really have a choice, so we had our siesta. In the afternoon we have returned in the general direction of the Basilica San Juan de Dios. San Juan de Dios is one of the most important Spanish saints. He was born in Portugal in Montemor-o-Novo, as João Cidade on March 8, 1495. What I found, was that he died on the same day, March 8, 55 years later in Granada. He was shepherd and then solder in the army of Charles V. He turned to religion and after he was rescued by Saint John of Avila from mental asylum, he started caring for poor and sick people. He organized his followers in Order of Hospitallers, which still exist and is known today as Brothers Hospitallers of St. John of God (http://www.saintjohnofgod.org/). This order apparently runs hospitals and different health and social services. This order has been officially entrusted with the medical and dental care of the pope. San Juan de Dios was canonized by Pope Alexander VIII on October 16, 1690. Basilica was constructed in 1757 in Granada to lodge his grave, and it is cared for by the Knights of Saint John of God. I was fascinated by the fact that this order was established in 2005. Apparently, the remnants of San Juan de Dios had to be hidden two times in history. First time in 1808, it was hidden in a fear from Napoleon army and second time during Spanish civil war. Regardless, Knights of Saint John of God are taking extremely good care of the Basilica. I have never seen a church so clean you could look for dust with the white gloves.

 

Jose de Bada was probably the man responsible for designing the last resting place for the saint, the Latin cross design with side Chapels and Capilla Major at the end of the crossing. Not very large church but decorated in the manner of ripe Baroque (Churriguera maybe?). Paintings and frescos were done by Diego Sánchez Sarabia, Granada painter for whom I could not find much information. The altar is a work of another artist I cannot surf out any information about, José Francisco Guerrero (and he is not famous composer or 20th century painter). Never the less, he did magnificent job. Behind the altar there is room which house reliquary with the remnants of San Juan de Dios. As we were silently trying to absorb as much intricate details as possible, a lady appeared and beckoned us to follow her. She led us up the stairs in the room behind the main altar. This was a very pleasant surprise. We felt privileged, because in most other churches you are treated as annoying tourist.

Siesta je čas počitka. Tu ga očitno zelo rigorozno upoštevajo. Vse se naenkrat zapre, in nisva imela druge izbire kot, da si privoščiva svojo siesto. Popoldan se vrneva po isti poti do že odkrite Basilike San Juan de Dios. San Juan de Dios je eden od najpomembnejših Španskih svetnikov. Rodil se je on 8. marca 1495 na Portugalskem v Montemor-o-Novo, kot João Cidade. Kar se mi je zdelo zanimivo je, da je umrl na isti dan 55 let kasneje v Granadi. Bil je najprej pastir in nato vojak v armadi Karla V. K veri se je obrnil ko a je njegov učitelj San Juan de Avillia reši iz azila za duševno bolne. Pričel je skrbeti za obubožane in bolne. Svoje učence je Red Hospitalierjev, ki obstaja še danes in je znan pod imenom Bratje Hospitalierji Svetega Janeza Božjega (nisem prepričan, da je ta prevod pravilen). Ta red zleda tudi danes upravlja z bolnišnicami in drugimi zdravstvenimi in socialnimi ustanovami. Temu redu so uradno zaupali zdravstveno in zobozdravstveno oskrbo papeža. Svetega Janeza Božjega je kanoniziral papež Aleksander VIII 16.oktobra 1690. Baziliko so pričeli graditi 1757 z namenom, da v njej dokončno pokopljejo ostanke svetnika. Za Baziliko skrbijo Vitezi Svetega Janeza Božjega. Presenetil me je podatek, da je red ustanovljen lete 2005. Posmrtne ostanke Svetega Janeza Božjega so morali pogosto skrivati. Prvič 1808 pred Napoleonovo vojsko in drugič med Špansko državljansko vojno. Ne glede na to je potrebno reči, da vitezi izjemno lepo skrbijo za cerkev. Nikoli še nisva videla cerkve, ki bi bila tako čista, da bi prah lahko iskali z belimi rokavicami.

Človek odgovoren za načrtovanje Bazilike je bil Jose de Bada. Načrt Basilike je v obliki Latinskega križa s stranskimi kapelami in Glavno kapelo. Cerkev ni zelo velika je pa okrašena v stilu prezrelega Baroka (mogoče celo Churriguera ?) Slike in freske so delo Diega Sáncheza Sarabie slikarja iz Granada o katerem nisem uspel prav veliko izvedeti. Oltar naj bi izdelal prav tako manj znan umetnik José Francisco Guerrero (ki pa ni skladatelj iz istega obdobja in ni slikar z začetka 20. Stoletja). Ne glede na to opravil je mojstrsko delo. Za oltarjem je prostor v katerem je nameščen relikviarij. Ko sva v tišini poskusila vpijati čim več detajlov, se nenadoma prikaže gospa, ki nas je povabi, da jo sledimo. Odpelje nas po stopnicah navzgor v prostor za oltarjem. Še eno zelo prijetno presenečenje. Priznam, da sva bila počaščena, saj te povsod drugod obravnavajo kot nadležnega turista. 

Nearby, barely 130 m away (according to Google maps) we have found another Granada jewel – Monasterio San Jeronimo de Granada. Monastery belonged to Hieronymite order. This order or its principal group was founded in Spain in XIV century. They say that nowadays there is only 11 monks left. The monastery itself was founded by Catholic kings at end of Reconquista. The work on the monastery began in1513 under the Jacopo Torni (from Florence) and finished by Diego de Siloé; Church itself and buildings around two courtyards are built in Renaissance style. Interior is richly decorated. The mannerist altarpiece of the main chapel is considered an important point of development of Andalusian sculpture and it is mainly the work of Pablo de Rojas. We have entered the church under the low ceiling which suddenly opened up to a full height and you had to stop and admire intricacy of medieval masters and builders. 

V bližini, niti 130 m daleč (sodeč po Google maps) odkrijemo še en Granadski dragulj – Samostan svetega Jeronima. Samostan pripada redu Hieronimitov. Ta red oz glavna skupina tega reda je ustanovljena v Španiji v XIV stoletju. Zanimivo je da red danes šteje samo 11 menihov. Sam samostan sta ustanovila Katoliška kralja. Na koncu Rekonkviste. Graditi so ga pričeli 1513 leta pod vodstvom Jcopa Tornija iz Firenc. Del je zaključil Diego de Siloé. Cerkev in zgradbe okoli dveh zaprtih dvorišč so gradili v renesančnem stilu. Notranjost cerkve je bogato okrašena. Oltar, ki je delo Pabla de Rojasa je narejen v zanimivem manerizmu, ki ga označujejo za pomembno točko v razvoju andaluzijskega kiparstva in arhitekture. V cerkev sva vstopila pod nizkim obokom, ki se naenkrat odpre v polno višino in moraš se ustaviti in občudovati kopleksnost in mojstrstvo renesančnih mojstrov.

Potepanja po Granadi / Wandering around Granada

You have probably noticed that my posts are lagging behind. Getting back in the harsh reality of everyday life doesn't help. But I do hope that my memories do not deteriorate and disperse before I get a chance to write the down.

Verjetno ste opazili, da moje objave zaostajajo. Vrnitev v kruto realnost vsakodnevnega življenja ne pomaga veliko, ravno nasprotno. Vendar upam, da moji spomini ne bodo prehitro izginili, še preden jih bom lahko zapisal.

Early morning - Plaza Bib Rambla is waking up. The name is coming from Arab Bab ar Ramia which means "wall gate" or maybe "gate at the river". The plaza used to be a sandy stretch near the river. It was used for different purposes, as a market place and also for different public events like "auto-de-fes" infamous inquisition public trails.


V zgodnjem jutru se prebuja Plaza Bib Rambla, Ime prihaja iz Arabskega Bab ar Ramia, kar pomeni "vrata v obzidju" ali "vrata na reko". Trg je včasih bil peščena obala reke. Uporabljali so ga za različne namene, predvsem za tržnice, vendar tudi za različne javne dogodke kot zloglasni "auto-de-fe" javno sojenje, ki jih je uprizarjala inkvizicija.

Around the corner we discover Alcaicería. This used to be a silk bazaar where silk was made and sold. Nowdays it is taken up by souvenir shops. Alcaicería literally means either the "house of Caesar" or "belonging to Caesar" in recognition of the fact that Emperor Justinian granted the Moors permission to sell silk. Original silk bazar burned down in 1843.


Za vogalom odkrijemo Alcaicerío. Včasih tržnica, kjer so izdelovali in prodajali svilo, danes trgovine z suvenirji. Alcaicería dobesedno pomeni "Cezarjeva hiša" ali "pripada Cezarju" v počastitev dejstva, da je bizantinski cesar Justinijan dovolil Mavrom, da so trgovali z svilo. Originalni bazar je pogorel leta 1843.

Waiting for monuments (Cathedral and Royal Chapel) to open for visitors we had wandered around taking in different glimpses of Cathedral squeezed in narrow streets. Open doors of now University building with baroque facade, let us see what is left of once great Nasrid sultan Yusuf I madrasa. The only surviving part of the school is the prayer room, which surprise you with intricate decorations, beautifully preserved.


Med tem ko sva čakala, da se Katedrala in Kraljevska kapela odpro za obiskovalce, sva se sprehajala po ozkih uličicah in se pustila presenetiti pogledom na utesnjeno Katedralo. Odprta vrata na lepi Univeritetni stavbi z baročni fasado, nama omogoči, da uzremo ostanek nekoč veličastne madrase Nasridskega sultana Yusufa I. Edini preživeli del je molilnica, ki preseneti s čudovito dekoracijo, ki je neverjetno dobro ohranjena.

Cathedral of Granada was built on the site of mosque, after Granada was reconquered from the Moors. It was begun in 1526 and finished in 1714. It took them 188 years. Enrique de Egas designed original Gothic style plans, but cathedral was later built in Renaissance style by Diego de Siloe.
Walking around the Cathedral we ended up on Calle de la Carcel at the very interesting Puerta del Perdon. It is not quite clear if forgiveness is gained by walking through this door or the justice was dispensed, considering the figures adorning this side entrance to the Cathedral.


Granadska katedrala je zgrajena na mestu mošeje, potem ko so Granado ponovno osvojili kristjani. Gradnjo so pričeli leta 1526, končali so pa 1714. Potrobovali so neverjetnih 188 let. Originalne načrte je narisal Enrique de Egas v Gotskem stilu, vendar je katedralo dokončal Diego de Siloe.
Ko hodiva okoli katedrale, v ulici Calle de la Carcel, odkrijeva zelo zanimiva Puerta del Perdon. Ob pogledu na figur, ki krasijo ta stranski vhod se lahko vprašamo ali so tisti, ki so vstopili bili deležni odpuščanja ali težke roke pravice.

Passing the market and spices and  knocking on the heavens door  we finally turned the corner and found our self in front of the cathedral. This amazing Baroque facade was designed by Alonso Cano in 1667. It was designed as a monumental Triumphal arch with coffered ceilings and three bays  moved in between pilasters. Again my fascination is with the details.

Mimo tržnice in začimb ter trkanja na nebeška vrata,  prideva  okoli vogala in se znajdeva pred glavno fasado katedrale. To je oblikoval Alonso Cano leta 1667. Zamišljena je kot slavolok z kastnimi stropiin tremi ladjami pogreznjenimi med pilastre. Kot vedno fascinirajo detalji.

Royal Chapel was commissioned by queen Isabel, to be her resting place. It was build in what is called Isabel Gothic. Unfortunately taking photographs of the inside is not allowed and all I have to show is a sneaky video I was shooting until I got caught.

Kraljica Izabela je za svoje zadnje počivališče naročila izgradnjo Kraljevske kapele. Ta je zgrajena v stilu, ki se imenuje Izabelinska gotika. Na žalost fotografiranje je bilo prepovedano in vse kar lahko pokažem je video, ki sem pokušal na skrivaj posneti, dokler me niso ujeli.

Finally, we have entered the Cathedral. Huge space and very bright. Four rows of five large classicall pillars form a nave and two aisles on both sides. Last three pillars before the Capilla Major contains gold plated organs on both sides. Transepts is not formally defined, it is drowned by the wideness of nave and aisles. Light is coming in through large clerestory high above and reflects on whitewashed walls. The outermost aisles are continued by ambulatory. Instead usual semicircular apse, Diego de Siloe designed unusual circular Capilla Major, covered by dome, supported by 12 thick Corinthian pillars. 

Končno vstopiva v katedralo. Ogromen prostor in zelo svetel. Štiri vrste s petimi klasičnimi stebri tvorijo glavno ladjo in na vsaki strani še dve stranski ladji. Zadnja stri stebra v vrsti pred Capillo Major podpirajo z zlatom obložene orgle. Transept (ne vem kako temu rečemo po slovensko, ker so slovenski internetni viri bolj revni) ni jasno definiran, ker je utopljen v prostranost glavne in stranskih ladji. Svetloba prihaja skozi velika okna klirestorija in se odbija od pobeljenih zidov. Zunanji stranski ladji se nadaljujeta v ambulatorij. Namesto polkrožne apse je Diego de Siloe ustvaril neobičajno Capillo Major, pokrito za kupolo, ki jo podpira 12 masivnih Korintskih stebrov.

To be continued

Se nadaljuje